Dejana Momčilović won the Textile Designer Award at the 42nd Belgrade Fashion Week. She graduated at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium. She formed her fashion expression by working with famous Belgian designers: A. F. Vandevorst, Dries van Noten, Vera & Violetta Pepa… Through her brand, she has boldly experimented with forms and colors, and a touch of femininity has followed her work and always innovative designs.
How much are you focused on the future, the coming trends, and how do you “listen” to what is coming?
I think I belong to a very small group of people in the local fashion industry who regularly follow every global fashion week and pre-collection. It is very interesting to me how things move within the fashion world, the transfers of designers and taking over of leading positions that dictate the coming trends.
Has your choice of fabrics differed while working in various different environments – working with the Belgian designers, the local companies, your freelance work?
In many respects, the Belgian designers and the local companies share similarities in structuring of the collection. When preparing new collections, choosing the materials and leading the production are two separate processes worked on simultaneously and for two different seasons. This is the same. The differences are that the Belgian designers are governed by a trend set up by their houses, while the local companies adjust their styles according to current trends. As a freelance designer I can choose a third path which includes both individual work and the need to move closer to the local audience.
In which phase of work on your own collections do you start to choose the materials?
Usually you choose the materials by playing around, but my personal sensibility is a common thread in all my collections.
What constructive properties of materials do most suit your work?
Different ones, but, in any case, I like the material to “move” nicely. It’s important to me the material is fluid and has good draping quality. I like natural materials, but I also like PVC chic.
When a designer and a huge supplier of materials like Textil Užice start collaborating, it also marks a step further in the development of the designer’s fashion line.
Fashion works by showing you the collection, and then, based on the number of requested models, it orders materials in necessary quantities and produces a certain number of items. For this kind of production you need a good partner in the textile industry, and it is my great honor to receive this award from them.
Choice of materials for your next collection?
At the moment, I’m working on a mini collection for the Fashion Scout SEE review. The winner will have a solo exhibition organized in London. I’ve put myself to the test this time, I’ve chosen the technique of pleating materials, which opens a whole sea of possibilities.
How much do you find the trend of environmental awareness and its effects on the environment important?
I find it important, but I’m not always able to choose environmentally-friendly materials, because their supply is low. Raising awareness about the environment requires a much broader structure.
How would you describe your experience with Textil company?
Our collaboration is still in the planning process, but I am using their materials in my new collection.